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Also taking seats at the London event are 10 Chinese publications, including Vogue China, 21 from Japan, 11 from South Korea, 10 from Taiwan and four from India.

Despite dampened retail sentiment, as the recession fears rattle the multi-billion dollar U.S. market, many British designers remain upbeat about demand for their creations.

Jeweller Stephen Webster has boutiques in Moscow, St. Petersburg and Siberia that make his following in Russia greater than anywhere else.

"Anyone with half a brain understands that America, which always used to be the biggest consumer market, is suffering," said his Russian-born wife and business partner Anastasia.

"So the new way is to look to Russia, China, all of the developing markets, because that is the new luxury consumer," she said.

But some designers at Sunday's opening chose to display collections that matched leaner economic times.

Biba played it safe with a collection strong on blacks and dark hues, colors that last longer than a season and always sell better in tougher financial periods when women are looking for styles with staying power.